Saturday, October 29, 2005

 

More news....

Well, it seems the deed is done. I handed in my book yesterday (final and finally) and let the consequences be dammed. Anyway, it looks like I'll get to keep my job - barely, and I'll get the promotion as well. The news isn't all rosy, as the "barely" part means that I'll be stuck at both Assistant Professor and in financial aid for a long time, if not my whole career. No matter: the plan still stands: 10 years and if I'm not married with kids: See ya!! Although who knows.... Still, all is well right now, and I'm feeling groovy. I even have a girlfriend! I met her on Craigslist, which as a site kicks all sorts of ass, but I never expected to meet anyone for the long term. She's nice and lives here in Westchester; I'm keeping my tolerance high and expectations low so we should be alright. In other news, my boss has terminal cancer and may be quiting soon. I really don't know what else to say on that just yet. Death is not my favorite topic, and I must admit I'm terrified of dying and being dead. Needless to say I haven't quite digested this news all that well. The office was a tomb yesterday, and I expect more of the same come Monday. Ugh. Let's move on for now.

In other news, I found a great website: www.generationexpat.com which is a small blog dedicated to expats who lived in Prague and other parts of the former Iron Curtain. Evidently there was an expat newsapaper (or two...) in Prague in the early 90's and the site is dedicated to those who ran the paper(s). There isn't a ton of stuff on the site, but it is well organized and written, which is more that I can say for this site. Mostly, it explores the mindset of the expat with emphasis on the Czech Republic, where the more literary of my brethren set up shop, drank Romanian wines, taught English, and banged hookers. D.A. Blyler, mentioned on this site before, was one of the more vocal memebers, but by no means the only one. I can't remember if I linked it before, but here goes: www.geocities.com/dablyler/page.html The Articles are the real draw, and his postings of the Czech Republic are my fave. Anyway, more when I get the final letter, and then I can relly let loose with my postings. **fingers crossed**

Saturday, October 08, 2005

 

More on the topic dujour

I seem to be really chatty on this subject, and I wanted to write a few more things before I crash out for the night. This essay deals specifically with how people fund their lives outside the USA, and as usual, travelers and expatriates will be dealt with separately.

Travelers and especially their more dedicated subgroup, vagabonds, engage in what is called road work. This is an uncommon practice in America these days; illegal immigrants will do the work much cheaper and have few rights, so white people on walkabout aren’t appealing temp workers. Other countries love having backpackers work their farms, plants, etc. The site www.Wwoof.org is an amalgam of national organizations dedicated to organic farming around the world, and people agree to work on these sites in exchange for room and board. It’s a chance to hang with locals, pick up a skill or two, and save money at the same time. You don’t get a wage that I know of, but you don’t have any expenses. Other forms of road work can be working at the youth hostel, or acting as an impromptu guide or “agent.” I discussed this in my last post, so we’ll leave it alone except to say I won’t be ending up as an agent of anyone.

The more literate wanders can make money acting as translators if the speak the language, or by writing for a publication back home such as Elliot Hester and the aforementioned Rolf Potts; both of whom wrote for Salon.com, among others. Still others teach English as a second language, which is HUGE business in other parts of the world. The degenerates of Amit Gilboa’s “Off the Rails in Phnom Penh” all made extra loot by teaching English. The pay for one school was only mentioned once, and that was 6.00 bucks an hour. That is enough to finance a whole host of debauchery where most people live on 20 bucks a week. Again, in exploring who can be called a traveler and who is an expat, the aim of such work will determine who is who. Generally, travelers engage in road work to stretch out their travel funds or to experience something novel, such as working on the above organic farms.

Expats generally start out by teaching English and will try other things later. This doesn't mean that all who try to teach are successful, but it is a good way to get your feet on the ground and English is the second most common language in the world. It is also the most common second language on Earth, so if a Hungarian meets someone from Japan, chances are they would be able to communicate in English. In other words, ESL is huge, and American expats have turned it into their own personal cottage industry. To wit: I just purchased Lonely Planet SE Asia on a Shoestring (the umpteenth update of their first book) and this HUGE (backache, seriously....) tome gives information on road work for all the countries in the book, and all have opportunities to teach English save the Philippines. As a former American colony, English has a decent presence already. And yes, America had colonies; some were absorbed in to the country (the Virgin Islands) and some were let go, such as the Philippines. Some have a more nebulous status, such as a Guam. The VI were purchaed from the British, others were won in the Spanish American war, and others were won in WWII.

Other expats open their own businesses, and this can be very lucrative depending on the nature of the venture. Expats in Panama are infamous for this, as the banking laws are very favorable for avoiding taxes and regulators. Lichtenstein is also a tax haven (much more so than Switzerland), but the start up costs are much higher than Panama, so only the super-rich can afford this, and are probably there already. Panamaian shell companies can operated in near total anonymity and are valid throughout the world to purchase stocks, land, etc. The Russian mob loves setups like these. For the sleazier amongst us, Margarita Island of Venezuela is the home of expats opening brothels, which are quite legal and seen as a legit enterprise. The point of all of this? The education and dedication to customer service Americans posses is near unheard of elsewhere even in other Western countries; less developed countries have near none. Once an expat finds his feet, the business know-how is mental gold. Of course greedy fools will be the taget of scams, but with even a few thousand as starting capital (remember how much that is in some nations) and a proper exit strategy (the most overlooked portion of any business plan....) there is money to be made. Also, immigrants/expats have what the natives do not: a fresh perspective and a fresh start. They are not penned in by the expectations of the native populace (good and bad) and are generally more flexible and willing to open businesses ignored by the natives. Keep in mind how much owning a gas station or convience store must be tomorrow morning The American immigrant experience is different than the American expat, but the theory works boths ways. Again the only caveat is that the rule of law is much stronger here than in other countries, but if you can quietly shift your profits to a sheltered account in a third county like Belize, you have it made. More later.....

 

More musings on travel

I’d like to dedicate a little more meditation on traveling, as some of my pet theories have bubbled up from the subconscious and I want to include them. One of the most common concerns about traveling is the issue of crime/safety. Most commonly the reply is a statement about crime statistics and how parts of America and Canada are more dangerous (South Central LA, the Bronx, East St. Louis, downtown Montreal, etc.) than you would encounter overseas, etc. These statements are true enough, and from a purely statistical point of view, you are as safe as or safer outside America than in. Africa is a notable exception, but the entire continent is off the backpacker radar anyway. All these statements also miss the point.

I’m concerned less with the likelihood of crime than the reaction to it. When you are the victim of a crime at home, you know where to go, who to call, and what to do. (I hope.) Is this true while traveling? Probably not; moreover, the perpetrators are most likely locals, gaining extra protection (cops paid off), or may be the police themselves. These circumstances occur here in America, but are exceedingly rare. Moreover, even if the police aren’t directly involved or paid to look the other way, they may want a bribe to “help” you or simply ignore your plight. Am I generalizing? Sure, but these are legitimate concerns.

Also remember that you are filthy fucking rich compared with the natives. I touched on this in my last post, but I didn’t mention all the resentment the locals can feel. This is one of the main differences between expatriates and travelers, but the differences are a matter of degrees. One gets mugged while the other has his home robbed while he’s away. One gets ripped off in some tour scam while another finds her lothario has cleaned out her bank account and skipped town. Speaking the language and being familiar with the area will ameliorate the risk, but you have a bull’s-eye on your ass; don’t forget it. Expatriates   have an advantage long-term, but are more exposed in the short term. Travelers may never gain the trust of the locals, but don’t hang around either.

As a final word on this topic, I must mention that people who do not consider themselves crooks are often on the wrong side of the law, but they know how to get away with it here at home or don’t realize they are breaking the law. Smoking a certain green leafy material is the most common example, and while inexpensive, the penalties are often severe and certain countries will execute your ass for even small amounts of the harder stuff. Your dealer could be in with cops to set you up for either jail or to extort a bribe. Better the pay-off than a 3rd world prison, but who needs the aggravation? Overstaying your visa is another common travelers’ crime, and you could be either jailed, heavily fined, deported, or any combination of the three. The general advice I’ve read on the various boards and blogs is to report yourself to your embassy ASAP and hope you don’t get busted before then. Another is to turn yourself in at an airport immigration office, as they seem to be more lenient, i.e. pay a fine and go home.  

Anyway, more later, like when I feel like writing… (

Friday, October 07, 2005

 

More on expats....

After spending the better part of a day on an essay of expats vs. travelers, I realized I missed the most common form of expat: workers who have been sent to another country by their company, normally for a project with a specific end date. These are the true expats of the world, who takes these jobs to ease their advancement or to avoid being laid off. Sometimes people take these positions to skip town or are bored and want to see a different part of the world. In any event, these expats will usually attempt to make their time in another land as much like the USA as possible, spending time with other Americans, eating American food, using English, etc. So-called travelers do this as well, and I use myself as an example. I was in Germany with my father and I walked around his small town in the former East Germany (FEG) and stopped upon a sign for pizza. I figured you CAN'T fuck up pizza, although some places are better than others. I'm a New Yorker and picky about pizza, sue me. They gave me a slab of stale pita bread with dry mozzarella and a few splashes of tomato sauce. Never before has food made me cry; this was a first. Depressed and homesick, I hopped the train to Berlin and when I left the train, I saw a McDonald's. I fell to my knees and wept openly. I then had 3 Big Macs with cheese and a side of fries. I also grabbed the USA Today International edition and chowed down. Full, happy, and well informed (kinda), I went back to my dad's place and told him I had fun walking around. I never left the train station.

Even travelers of Rolf Potts' class are guilty of such drama now and then, but the above category of expats are infamous for it. So too are the retiree expats, who move to Mexico, Panama, Belize, The Dominican Republic, etc. and set up small versions of the US in their gated, patrolled communitites. One tickle down their right arm and these fools are on the next flight to Miami, I guarantee it. I consider such activities silly and risky anyway because you never know when the governments will abscond with your property, but we run the risk of such stealing here in America more and more. I also consider this neocolonialism on a small scale, but it isn't all bad. The money these enclaves bring in to the surroudning areas is a pittance here, but these nations would call it a fortune and results in jobs, development, etc. There's a reason Rolf Potts was able to backpack all over the world for 2 1/2 years on what I would believe was around 10,000 dollars. When he writes another book and embarks on a tour I'll ask him. The web site www.worldscheapestdestinations.com does a decent job of list nations where one can travel very cheaply, and many of the nations listed were visited by none other than Rolf Potts.

I suppose one is a traveler or an expat depending on the final aim(s) one has while in another country. If one is looking to eventually return home or ramble on to some other land, then you are a traveler or wanderer of the vagabond variety. If your aims are more concrete or commercial, then I'd call you an expat. One should also take in to account how you feel about America; the more you dislike the US of A, the more I'd call you a surly expat asshole. That would be my nomenclature, feel free to invent your own. Keep in mind that negativity may not be exclusively political or social. There are those who see more economic opportunity outside the USA than in. I'd agree with that statement, but the rule of law is much stronger here than in the nations most commonly chosen by expats, they just don't know it. I may not be rich with 2 grand in the bank, but I could live for 4.333 months in India or Indonesia in relative luxury. (Yes, I did the math....) Would I be considered rich in those lands? No, but I'd be better off than nearly 95% of the population. I could probably stretch out the money to last me nearly 9 months, not including airfare. I point here is: I'm not worth robbing in Mamaroneck, but in Jakarta, the 100 bucks in my wallet would feed a local family for a month. Ergo, I'm a target. I'm not the most appealling target, as my dimensions are not small, but I'm still a Westerner. To wit: God made man, but Colt made them equal. (I may be paraphrasing...)

Anyway, I'll end this post with a quick update on my situation: still in stasis. I'm still waiting for my results from my Dean and a review from my Director. I rmember that my Dean's results were a long time coming, so that doesn't bother me too much. I did get the second peer review finished, but the results were not really in doubt. I did get my letter requests out of the way, and all requests were approved. I'll get those on Monday. I'll write more when I know more.

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

 

Expatism vs.Traveling....

This post is unusually difficult to write, or perhaps I should say begin. My dad is in town for two weeks with his 3rd son, Alex, in tow. Luckily for Alex, his English is much better than my German ever was. It's easier to learn a new language anyway, with multimedia and the 'Net, but Alex is also taught (British) English in school and can practice with my father when they talk and visit. Alex is an American citizen (born in Greensboro, NC) and my dad is naturalized for MANY years (nearly 40), but both are recognizably German if you were to hear or even see them here in the States. Alternately, in Germany both would be seen, sooner (my dad) or later (Alex) as Americans. Their accents or fashion sense wouldn't give them away, but eventually their attitudes would. My father has NO tolerance for the bullshit Germany places on its productive citizens, and this lack has cost my dad dearly over the years. Alex has taken some of my father's American attitudes, but to what extent I cannot say just yet. He's certainly mellower than my father and brother and he's awed by America's size, but he's adapting. I guess my father has taught his that he is an American and will someday have the option of living here. I guess I'm saying he appears American to me rather than German. I suppose his mind set appears to me as American. I'll elaborate: Irish-Americans like to state they have strong ties to the Emerald Isle, but when faced with their Irish relatives, they find they have little to nothing in common. Irish-Americans have an idealized notion of Ireland that does not mesh with reality. The Irish are just poor Europeans who wish to live in prosperity the same as everyone else. The Irish have more in common with Germans or the French than with Americans, we just don't know it. Anyway, what does this have to do with my unstartable post? Well, I'm considering the differences between expat literature and travel writing. It's late, so I'll save here and write more later.

I'm back, nearly 13 hours later at the office. I should clarify that I mean not only expat writings vs. Travel writings, but travel vs. expatism on the whole. Neither category of writing is overflowing with titles, and insight for either path is in short supply. Are all expats just long term travelers? Probably not, but are more expats really travelers than they care admit? You bet. America doesn't have an expat community; we consider such enclaves immigrant communities. You can include England, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and interestingly, Argentina in this group. Other countries don't encourage immigration as enthusiastically, and I include France, Germany, and Ireland in this group. All encourage immigration, but not for immigration's sake. Essentially, these nations and other like them are desperate for workers and their tax revenue, so they can come in as workers, but they are not "moving" to these countries. Turks in Germany have been living there for 3 generations, but they are Turks, not Germans, and have little or no rights as a result. The understanding is these guest workers will eventually return home. It doesn't always happen.

Regardless of one's status or what country one in which ones lives, if you are an American you are not a local. People in other countries are often mystified by American living abroad. The whole world is clamoring to get in, why did you leave? We have our reasons. Anyway, the question I'm attempting to answer is simple: which is more honest? I'll give you the following writers: Rolf Potts and D.A. Blyler.

Rolf Potts is the author of Vagabonding, and a world traveler. After living as an expat in Korea teaching English, he saw the change in the air and left after saving a small fortune. He then backpacked through SE Asia, the Middle East, Eastern Europe, Russia, and Mongolia over the course of 2 1/2 years while sending dispatches to Salon.com. These missives were occasionally hilarious, sometime poignant, and always insightful. Click the link to the left for more. Anyway, his overriding philosophy was that however long he spent in a place, he was not and would not ever be one of them. He was a traveler and would always be seen as such. Moreover, everyone else would seem him as a foreigner, not matter how long he stayed in a certain place. He didn't mind this, and accepted it as the reality of the situation. His writing certainly reflected this truism. Therefore, we can certainly label him a traveler. However, he wrote his vagabonding book in Thailand and when he needs to write, he goes back to this one place. Can he now be called an expat? He owns a small cabin in his native Kansas near his parent's farm, so why doesn't he write there? Thailand is cheaper, aside from the flight, but he could probably sponge off his parents in the interim. He likes Thailand more than Kansas and I'm sure I would agree. So is he an expat? Probably not, but neither is he a traveler. Staying in one place to work and earn loot is not the activities one would engage in while on vacationing. In fact, the very act of working prevents him from being a traveler. He is (as his book implies...) a vagabond, a post-modern wanderer benefiting from the Internet and seeing the world. He's closer to expat than he wants to admit, but not there yet.

DA Blyler is the classic expat, living first in the Czech Republic and now in Thailand. An ESL teacher, he also writes, operates a PR company inThailand, and comments about politics on various blogs and news sites. His first book, "Steffi's Club" details his adventures as an ESL teacher in the Czech Republic in a small city outside of Prague. A decent book, he becomes a limited partner in a brothel (i.e. Steffi's club...) and befriends a Russian mobster, fights off a nasty Gypsy pimp, all while teaching and signing up his fellow teachers as clients. Things go awry and he escapes with a small wad of cash and hightails it to Greece to meet his Roma/Czech girlfriend who disappeared earlier in the narrative. He then moved to a small provincial city in Thailand and teaches English while living on a banana plantation with his Thai wife and stepdaughter. When I read this I wanted to scream "Sellout!" but who am I to judge? Is he an expat? Sure, but he has not fully cut the cord between himself and the USA, as he still comments on the USA. He may come back one day, but does that make him a traveler? No. Still, he recognizes himself as an American, and knows that everyone else sees him as an outsider. He's not an interloper ala "The Beach" by Alex Garland, but he's not Thai and never will be.

I ask these questions because of the uncertainty in my own life. Is my dad effectively an American expat, living not in his home nation but the nation of his birth? Is he traveling to the US as a tourist or is he coming home for a visit? I don't have these answers yet, and I may need to figure these things out sooner rather than later. I suppose I'm looking for a theme to guide me. I'm not much of a traveler; I sit in a coffee shop for hours surfing on my laptop. I'm also rootless enough to live in 3 states in one year, and the purpose of expats is to lay down roots. I suppose I'll wander around for a while until I figure out what's next. More in the proverbial later.

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